Turn a Candle into Cinnamon Spice Candle

Buy a candle then create your own rustic, homemade-look cinnamon coated candle.

And, it will burn safely because the acrylic is water base.

So easy!

WHAT YOU NEED:
Candle - any size or color
Acrylic paint in brown hue
Paint brush
Candle holder to hold the candle while it dries
Ground cinnamon, nutmeg, clove or other ground spice

INSTRUCTIONS: Paint the candle, put into candle holder and let dry. Don't get carried away with brush strokes, pressing hard on the brush or repeatedly going over the wet paint.

Add a thick, heavy second coat.

While it's still wet, begin sprinkling the cinnamon over the candle.

Be sure to turn the candle once one side is covered and continue until the entire candle is coated in the spice.

Let dry.

That's it! That's all there is to this simple tutorial to create your own cinnamon spice covered rustic candle.

Please visit Visages for more rustic cards, invitations, postage, gifts, and more. Below are a few examples.

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Paint Vintage Oil, Gas or Kerosene Can for Makeover

 

Turn old grey galvanized oil, gas, or kerosene cans into rustic country decor or vases with paint and your imagination.

These three cans were given to me by Donnie, Glasgow Trading Post, with instructions to "... paint roosters. Roosters are popular.". Well, he got a couple of chickens (one pretty primitive) and primitive rooster.

The trick to creating the chicken and rooster shapes - strictly speaking for myself - is to focus on the negative space surrounding the bird since I most generally don't trace.

Because the birds are mostly white, I chose dark backgrounds which allow the lighter colors to "pop" a bit more than if I were to use lighter backgrounds.

If you're unsure whether the colors you chose will contrast enough, simply paint swatches on scrap paper to compare. Scared of making a mistake? Here's the great thing about paint: You can paint over it as many times as necessary until you achieve the look you want.

And... be sure to take a brush and water to at least the exterior to remove anything that's loose.

The above can was based with nutmeg brown. The bottom border was made with a 1/4 inch brush. Antique white and barn red make up the colors of the primitive chicken. Burnt umber was floated along the interior edges of her body.

I chose a black background for variation since the piece was scheduled to be in a gift shop. I wanted to offer customers a choice. The colorful chicken was based in antique white, head in barn red and multiple colors and layers were added for her feathers. I added a bit of shading around a few feathers of the wing just to add interest and depth.

Again, nutmeg brown for the base color. I painted a simple leaf motif border around the bottom in antique gold. Barn red and antique white make up the body while antique gold was used for the feet. The primitive rooster's body was finished off with a light coat of burnt umber along the inside edges.

Rule of thumb: Keep the shapes basic and painting to a minimum. Think quick and easy to achieve a rustic country or primitive look.

All cans were sprayed with a clear coat - the cheapest I could find.

Why?

Because acrylic paint doesn't stick to metal very well so the slightest brush against it will chip or scratch the paint.

If the can is remaining inside the home, you can always use water based varnish found at a craft store.

Have fun! Don't be scared. Attack the can bearing in mind that you can paint over any mistake.

 

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Repupose and Upcycle Old Cutting Boards

Taking things - discarded items nobody wants - and turning them into decorative and sometimes even useful items has become a challenging pastime.

For instance, take the two cutting boards pictured to the left. I considered turning them into shelves or even racks for towels or jackets but in the end decided to keep it simple by painting uncomplicated images on them.

A painted star and burning candle on the plain wood of this paddle cutting board was something I'd been considering for some time.

The stenciled star was painted in antique gold and is surrounded by burnt umber. Burnt umber was dry brushed along the inside edges of the star.

The candle stick consists of a straight line using barn red and a half-inch brush, a float of burnt umber on the left while on the right is dry brushed white. The flame was created using one stroke of antique white with yellow, orange and blue layered on top. A hint of a wick was added. Burnt umber, black or grey will work fine for it.

Lastly, antique white was dry brushed around the flame up into the bottom of the star.

The cat silhouette board was based with one layer of black wash then multiple layers and colors (nutmeg, gold then antique white) were slapped on with abandon to create a background for the silhouette.

The cat silhouette was painted using a flat one inch brush loaded with black. Basic shapes in multiple layers of black were used for all parts than a hint of a shadow using burnt umber was added along the right edge.

A hole was drilled at the center top of the board and a piece of scrap material was poked through and tied in a knot to be used as the hanger.

A simple day project to create simple, country primitive decor for you or as gifts.

Have fun!

Please visit my online gift store, Visages

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Old White Sheets Make Up Candy Corn Pillows

Worn out white sheets were given to me by our neighbor who lives down the road. They were lovely but unusable for bedding.

What to do with them? Recycle, upcycle and repurpose, of course!

The pictured candy corn pillow made from an old sheet was my first. It measures 11 inches on all sides. I have since changed my pattern measurements: 11 inches across the bottom; 13 3/4 sides all raw edge measurements.

Materials:
* white material of some sort
* straight pins
* scissors
* ruler
* newspaper (to make pattern)
* sewing machine (or sew by hand)
* fiber fill (I found an old unused pillow, ripped it open and used its filling)
* acrylic off white, dark orange like burnt orange or terra cotta, and gold. Basically you'll want to use colors that are muted and antique looking unless you prefer bright colors and you aren't going for the "primitive" look
* One inch flat brush
* Water to rinse brush

Measure and mark 11 inches starting at the outside corner and along the bottom edge of the newspaper.

Mark at 11 inches.

Measure upward (vertical) 13 3/4 along the outside edge and at the 11 inch mark, and mark both.

Now place a mark at five and a half inches between the two top (13 3/4) marks.

Lay the ruler down at the 11 inch and five and a half inch mark then draw a line to create one side.

Lay the ruler down at the outside corner and the five and a half inch mark then draw a line.

You now have the triangle. Cut out along the lines.

Pin the cutout triangle onto your fabric and cut out the shape.

Or fold the fabric, pin on the newspaper pattern and cut out two shapes at once.

Remove the pins and paper pattern then repin the fabric pieces together.

Sew quarter inch seams leaving an opening large enough at the bottom to stuff fiber fill.

To really make the pillow look like candy corn, don't make triangle points. Instead, sew curves at each point (semi-circles).

Cut off the points and snip the now-curved points of the triangle.

Turn right side out and stuff. Make sure to poke the stuffing well into the corners so they'll hold their shapes.

Sew closed using a simple stitch of your choice (like a whip-stitch).

TO PAINT:

Load your flat brush into gold and draw a line about three inches up from the bottom on one side of the pillow. Fill in the space from the line you made to each seam.

Rinse brush, load with terra cotta. Draw a line two and a half to three inches from the top. Fill the space between the gold and the orange line and side to side using the seam as the stopping point.

What we're doing is just painting one side of the pillow. Then we'll let it dry and repeat the process on the other side.

Rinse brush.

Paint the tip of the candy corn with off white.

After the paint dries, do the same thing to the other side of the pillow.

The paint will dry stiff. Leave as is OR sand it a bit to soften it. Don't get over-zealous with the sandpaper. You'll remove all the work you did painting.

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This hand painted vintage metal cake carrier (holder or cover) was originally bare silver metal (tin, I wonder) when it was given to me by Donnie, owner of Glasgow Trading Post.

I used acrylic paint then sealed it with a water-base varnish more to protect the paint than anything but in the end the piece appears to be enamel coated.

If you tackle the project be prepared to use at least three layers of acrylic to base-coat it. But once you have it base-coated, depending on what element you're painting you can get away with using only one layer of paint.

The next project - also given to me by Donnie - is a sponge cake pan also originally bare silver metal. Again, you'll have to base coat at least three layers.

Color was floated below the edge of the "icing" with dry brushed highlights on the "icing" to make it appear three dimensional and no other decorative elements were added. I wanted it to look like a cake setting out in the kitchen but it will also look good on a kitchen wall.

This piece was also finished with water-base varnish.

Note: Acrylic doesn't stick to metal as there is no adhesive in the paint. It's strictly water-base with pigment.

To help the paint to stick, you have the option of sanding to roughen the metal or using spray enamel paint as the base coat.

These items are for sale at Glasgow Trading Post in Glasgow, Missouri. Have fun with the two projects!

Please visit my gift store, Visages. Below are just a few of my original designs. 

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